When I think of vacation I think of splashing in cow manure, being urinated on by farm animals, doing manual labor, being surrounded by no English speakers and racing a heavy rainstorm through the rainforest before the river crossing becomes impassable. Don't you?

Ok. Maybe that wasn't exactly what I had in my mind when I chose to sign us up for a Farm Day with a local family, but we loved it. We wanted to immerse the kids in the real Costa Rica and local culture. That's exactly what this day was.

4am I was wide awake all of a sudden. No matter how hard I tried to sleep, going to bed at 8:30, combined with a very early sunrise and a body that thought it was two hours later were fighting against me. By 5 the rest of the family had joined me. Getting to 7am (when everything came alive) without waking up everyone at the resort became our new goal.

My daughter was rewarded for her good behavior (it's relative) by getting to go see the animals at the barn. We were taken first to pet the horses, then around to see the chickens and pigs. Have you heard how loud a lot of chickens are when they are ready for breakfast? After we convinced her she couldn't go into the pen with the pigs we took her around to the cows who were about to be milked. We met Nicholas and he proved to be one of the most patient men. He made room for her on his stool and helped her milk the cow until she got tired. She was mesmerized by the experience. Nicholas showed me pics of his two children and i translated all of her cow questions.

After the barn we headed up to the restaurant to get a head start on breakfast. They had our same table at the front set up for us and we had fresh mango juice and a platter of watermelon, pineapple and mango before we could even sit. I wasn't expecting a big meal since breakfast was included but we wee told today they were cooking eggs, sausage and tortillas. We could have out eggs scrambled or fried. We chose one of each. The boys showed up minutes later and put in their orders. I must say I don't remember the last time I had a breakfast this good. I'm not even a breakfast person. The eggs very incredible. I'm sure they were provably collected that morning. The pork was from the farm (sorry to my daughter...) and the tortillas were just yum. 10 out of 10

After breakfast it was time to head out for our day at a nearby farm. We got directions and hit the road. We got to go the opposite way as how we came to the resort and both Josh and I noted how glad we were to come during rainy season. Our trip in 2005 was almost this same week and was super lush. In 2008 we came in March and it was really dusty. It's obvious how the rain and greenness completely change this country. We much prefer the daily rain.

Our directions were good but we beat our hosts to the farm entrance so we missed it once. We got situated and followed to kids on an ATV through over a 100 acres of farm to a house. There we briefly met the mother of the family and then were motioned to follow several of the kids. Not a single person spoke English.

We started by going into the chicken area and one of the boys climbed a structure to collect eggs. My son (several years younger) immediately followed suit. In what seemed like an instant he had grabbed an egg broken it, fallen through the rungs of the ladder and then full out broken part of the whole structure apart. This was all in the first 10 minutes.

Josh is now looking at me like "where in the world have you taken us?) I just smile and we trudge along. Next stop was to go in with the cows. I thought we were going to do something with the cows but we actually were climbing into the hay loft so the kids could show chicken eggs that had hatched, I was starting to realize this was show and tell. Around this time, my sweet sweet daughter chose to jump in a wet pile of cow diarrhea that sprayed all over her and I. Lovely. Just smile.

A couple phone calls were made and a tractor showed up. My son wanted to immediate climb in the back. I held him back as it was filled with. You guessed it. Manure. Right then the girl running the show, said car. Yep! We jumped in their truck and took off, somewhere.

I wish I had photographed Josh at this moment. I should give him credit. Ten years ago going to a country that doesn't speak English was out of his comfort zone. I don't know many people that would just go spend the day with strangers in their home.

We showed up at a field and there were several men working. Josh quickly figured out that they were clearing a hill to plant with grass for the cows. Three men were planting while two more were working a machine to dig the land. That's interesting. I wonder how long we are staying here? We kept standing and watching and then the boss came over. Eric. It was obvious he was the owner of the farm and he confirmed what they were doing. Without any other explanation he was back in the backhoe. I wonder why we are watching this?

All of a sudden the men who were planting appear with a pile of grass and start handing us piles. They show us how to drop it, stomp it and cover it up. An hour later, in 90 degree heat our son is the only one who actually planted. Our daughter stopped after one and became a diva. Josh sat with her and I took pictures of our son. The whole morning he couldn't get the concept of "they don't speak English". He would just blabber away and these kids would stare at me pleadingly. During the planting with the men he started communicating somehow. It was great to watch that unfolding and see how determined of a worker he could be,

I finally thought I was going to pass out from heat stroke and gathered the family to go up to the nearby cow barn. The men understood that and took us into it. I looked down and was alarmed. Is that, blood? Oh my gosh it is! They led us back behind a gate and I quickly knew why. A calf had just been born there 4 hours prior. Other than that horse in Belize I had never seen such a big newborn before! We got to see them raising the calf to stand and taking her to be with her mom. It was pretty cool.

By now we were hot, sweaty and smelly. Was it lunchtime yet? Nope time to go fishing! My son proceeded to tell Eric, who was now acting as guide, how his daddy killed a fish last time we did this. The kids were told that they were catching their lunch, given a fishing line with a hook and a ball of fish food on it and taken to the pond to go at it. Despite our valiant attempt, we didn't catch any fish. Josh and I are questioning whether it's possible. We were asked if we were hungry and the idea of soap caused me to respond ecstatically.

We returned to their house where Eric's wife, kids and several nieces and nephews joined us. We had about half an hour until it would be ready. Two of the younger kids, Santiago and Erica asked the kids to play a tag game with them. Blanking on the name now but I played it all the time growing up. They couldn't figure out how to explain the game with the language barrier so they grabbed my kids by the shirts and started running, that worked. Probably one of the coolest parts of the day was watching the kids play. They had no idea how to talk to each other but they had a blast. One would count in Spanish, then one in English. They'd look to me or Eric to translate.

Lunch was family style with both our families. Simple but I'm sure fresh and from the farm. Fried fish. Rice, beans, tortillas and pico de gallo - so good but my son wouldn't eat it because Santiago doesn't like it....Papaya for dessert.

After lunch was siesta time. Good luck with our kids! All the kids ended up playing a few games. First a board game and then matching with cards. After a bit they were told it was time to milk the cows and we headed back to the barn.

After this morning I was expecting a pail and a stool. I forgot they had 70 dairy cows and that wasn't logical. We walked into a full in lecheria. It was quite the system. We helped with half of the cows is guess. It was a mad rush to fill up each of their food bowls. Lock them in and get them hooked up to the milking hoses. The kids helped with the hoses and somehow my daughter got peed on on the process. She was such a trooper and still wanted her turn next round.

I thought we were done after milking. Nope. Now we make cheese. How us that possible in an afternoon. Oh it is. We gathered a bucket of milk and headed back to the house. Josh was instructed to wash his arms and to stick them in the bucket with the milk and some sort of liquid. No clue. A few swirls and then we were told wait 20 minutes. Ok sure.

The kids were happy playing so we hung out on the patio with Eric. A storm was starting to come in and the temp was falling nicely. Eric and I got talking in Spanish for a long time and I was surprised at how quickly it came back. He said it was really impressive which made me feel good and more comfortable to keep practicing. I don't remember what we were saying but I started my famous laugh. All of a sudden I heard it. There parrot was imitating me! She was laughing like me. That of course had me in hysterics. I pulled out my phone to record her and shut up. Of course.

20 minutes up. Josh now had to "very slowly" hand mix the milk mixture. Yummy.... When he was done with that 5 minutes Eric instructed him how to press and strain the cheese. This was quite the manual process but we ended up with a huge block of cheese. After the salt was added it was covered and we were told another 20 minutes.

The storm was really coming in now. It was starting to rain. I think the 20 min wait turned into 10. We had chunks of cheese handed to us. We said our goodbyes and Eric then says "The river rises fast. Go! Go now! Fast!" What?!?!

Thankfully we got out of their in time but he was right. The road roads turn slick fast and we had a crossing that would probably be impassable soon. What he didn't warn us of were the numerous cow rope fences tied across the road I would have to jump out and untie in the torrential downpour.

We made it home. Just in time for a hot shower and nap before dinner. Except... The power appears to be out and the hot water is electric. Cold showers. We still were clean and ended up at dinner dry for another great meal. Kids were snoring by 6:50 and Josh and I struggled to stay awake until 8. Let's hope my internal clock turns off.
















DISCLAIMER: it appears that we will have wifi at each place we are staying. However, due to remoteness, that connection is limited to one spot on property. That means I'm writing on my phone throughout the day and uploading when I have wifi. I'm sure some of it will be butchered.

Part of what makes this trip so amazing is the knowledge that our kids have no understanding of how their world is about to be opened up. Completely rocked.

We've gotten a lot of comments about the kids being too young to appreciate this. My response? Let's be honest. When you are a parent it's just as much about doing things so you can see joy and new experiences through them. But, I also don't think they are too young. These are kids who are already quite aware of their racial differences, will be learning to speak in new languages in 3 months and have better memories than we do. The younger they are when they get exposed to other cultures and travel the better.

GETTING THERE
The most eventful part of the trip to Costa Rica was figuring out the seats. My son and I were already first class since we bought our tickets with points at a ridiculous deal. We got our daughters ticket with a different set of reward points so she was on a separate reservation from all of us. Although we spoke to US Airways ahead of time to make sure she was linked to Josh and would stay with him... Surprise, surprise Nope! Josh got bumped and our 3 year old was left by herself in coach.

When we got to the airport we were assured that first class was sold out. Out best option was to put one of the adults in coach and the other in first class with the kids. Josh won paper, rocks, scissor and got to fly by himself in an empty exit row.

And if you couldn't guess, there was an open seat in first. Nice US Airways. The stewardess was nice and sent a piece of key lime pie back to Josh,

Kids were great though. I'm sure loading the iTouches with every Disney movie we own and flying during nap time (Rory slept half the time after I agreed to braid her hair) helped. The flight attendant actually came and congratulated me on both their behavior and my parenting. As did the people siting behind us. Shocking.

LOTS OF QUESTIONS
I'm going to need to remind myself daily (maybe hourly) how new of an experience this is for them. Or I might go mad. I'm fairly certain that every 10 minutes since we landed my daughter has asked when we will be in Costa Rica. These are the same children who ask me "is today tomorrow" daily.

Airport = Easy. Car rental was waiting for us. I'd say having a rental company we like has proven to be important. We go with local companies in CR and have never had anything but good experiences. They quickly gave me directions to the highway and put us on our way.

THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
I will start talking about our resort in a minute but kudos to them for the amazing packet of documents they emailed. Their map was better than all three we got from the car rental. They had detailed directions of multiple paths to La Fortuna (closest town and then multiple paths to the resort from there. Our biggest challenge was when the main road closed and we had to invent our own detour.

The drive through the Central Valley was as pretty as I remembered. Lush. Green. Rolling. Of course there was no way for us to stop safely for me to get photos of the best spots. The most dramatic part of the drive is the approach to La Fortuna as you drive straight toward the volcano. The storm was rolling in and covering up the volcano in a rather ominous way.

Once in La Fortuna we had three options. A normal route. A safe paved route or the short, adventurous, only to be attempted with a 4x4 route. We of course took the latter. It says not to attempt during heavy rains because the Arenal River crossing floods. Even though it was raining, all the gorgeous little rivers had been low so figured it was safe. We were afraid to jinx ourselves while doing it but the drive wasn't bad. The last 2-3 km were to my and needed 4x4 but we have driven a lot worse here, other countries and even Hawaii.

I of course wanted to poke around a bit at the river crossing and made the kids take the required pic. Rory volunteered to traverse the bridge vet head.

LEAVES AND LIZARDS
When we arrived Hazel was waiting out front with the dogs. Check in was quick and involved asking f we would like to move our dinner time up, too go us she had scheduled a farm day for us the next and that we should be at the barn by 7am to collect eggs. She then jumped on an ATV to lead us to the Toucan Cabin. The kids were too involved with the dog to notice the outdoor shower, bunkbeds, fresh cows milk or full view onto the volcano. It wasn't lost on Josh or I.

I'm thankful we moved dinner up to 6:30. The two hour time difference was taking a toll on the kids' behavior and my patience. We had preordered one meat and one vegetarian dinner and two fried chicken dinners for the kids. It was the prettiest fried chicken ever. I imagined they had killed the chicken I that before dinner. Gruesome.

After chasing frogs through their gorgeous open air restaurant, annoying our server Kimberly with 20 questions and forcing as much food into the kids as possible we headed home for bed.












"TRAVEL IS FATAL TO BIGOTRY, PREJUDICE AND NARROW-MINDEDNESS." - Mark Twain






TWO WEEKS. Less than two weeks. More like 11.5 days but who is counting. All four of us are headed to one of my favorite places on earth, Costa Rica. This will be our first international trip with the kids. I'm hoping and wishing with every ounce in my body that it goes well. Over the last 5 years, since we have become parents, Josh and I have been lucky enough to continue to travel the world. Because of the support of good grandparents, we have gotten to explore: 
Belize, Croatia, Paris, Thailand, Cambodia, Dominican Republic, Kauai and Mexico (a few times). We are ready to share our love of travel with our kids and allow them to be transformed as we have. 

So, why the heck Costa Rica? People have asked me this a lot. Knowing I don't like to revisit places. There are just too many countries on my bucket list right now. Costa Rica has always been the exception for us. We've only been twice but both trips were special. (you can read my typical partial reports on here - I hope to do better this trip) I initially tried to convince Josh we should go to Portugal. He countered with a return to Hawaii. CR ended up being the negotiation since it fit my bill for international and his for somewhere we'd feel comfortable and not too unfamiliar with. 

Planning a trip for 2 active and adventurous adults is very different than planning for a family of four with two kids not even in school. Luckily, I like challenges. I'll pretend like I came up with this wonderful and symbolic plan to choose one destination from our 2005 trip, one from our 2008 trip and then one completely new place. Yep, I thought that was a great idea!

Arenal - How do you take kids to Costa Rica and not take them to the volcano? Just say lava to a 5 year old and his eyes light up. That became stop #1. 

La Carolina Lodge - When we went there with our friends in 2008 we celebrated Josh's 30th birthday. It was hands down the most magical place I've ever been. It could have been the company, but I think it was the place. Only candlelight, eating family style some of the best food I'm ever tasted. No real agenda. This will either be great or a disaster with the little ones. 

Samara Beach - We knew we had to go to one of the beaches. Malpais is our normal but last time it was starting to becoming too "discovered". After a bit of searching I stumbled on Samara and it reminded me of what we originally loved in Malpais. Laid back. Calm. Beautiful. No way they won't love this. 

I'll save all the details of what we are doing for when we are there and I can give the full report. I get a lot of questions on how I research and find all my stuff. Before I get burned out with the reports I thought I'd share how I did this one. 

PLANNING SOURCES

TripAdvisor - I don't usually use the hotel searches but I have been finding their forums to be the most active lately for the lesser known destinations. You can get very detailed on location. If I find a reference to an activity, hotel, etc. I will then dig into it deeper through searching it specifically on tripadvisor and read reviews there. It's a been of a fact finding mission. 

Fodors Forums - for a long time I have been using Fodors forums. I feel like they used to be more active or maybe I'm getting more off the beaten path. What they are really good for is Trip Reports. I found a trip report for a family almost identical to ours in age and activity style. I used a lot of their itinerary when making ours. Other peoples reports can be highly helpful if their tastes match yours. 

AFAR - This is my newest planning tool and I'm still testing it a bit. A few months ago I discovered their magazine in the Airport and fell in love. I started following them on Twitter and their feed is one of my two favorites. (Dark Rye is the other with GOOD as a close third - could change at any minute though!) They provide all sorts of hidden gem, off the beaten path, information around the world. They feel grittier, if that makes sense. They have a new App out that I've been playing with. It's not highly populated for CR but I hope to add to it. It's meant to help you identify little hidden gems when you are traveling and document things you find. It lets you create a trip plan and save your items offline for when you are traveling and have the iPhone on Airplane Mode. I've already noted a secluded beach with a Turtle Sanctuary to visit while we are there. 


Would love to hear if anyone has any other favorite planning or travel sites, apps or tools. Otherwise, talk to you guys in Central America! 

PURA VIDA