We woke up our last morning at Rio Celeste and took our time eating and packing up. When we went to checkout the charge for our room was a quarter of what we should have been billed. $100 total. I knew that couldn't be right and told them so. One of the managers came over to tell me that they were horrified at what had happened and gave us the first night free and then charged us half of the cheaper room rate for the second. I told them that wasn't necessary, it definitely wasn't, and he said if course it was. We obviously appreciated that and told them so. 

We packed up the car and headed out on the road. Although this was our third trip to the Tenorio area we hadn't explored it much and decided to take our time getting to the next hotel. Our trusty Lonely Planet and my amazing navigation skills led us first to Rincon Corobici for a relaxing lunch on the side of Rio Corobici. We were the only folks but by the time we left it was packed. I could have sat there with the breeze and rapids for hours. 

Right down the road was Las Pumas, a big cat refuge I had heard about for awhile but never made it to. It was very similar to the one we had gone to near Arenal last year. The big differences are that the focus is cats (puma, jaguar, leopard) and that it is self guided. For $10 it was very cool to visit this organization that is doing good work. It sounded like they work with a rescue team in Arenal to save a lot of orphaned or abused animals. 

The cats were pretty amazing to see and the parrots were as entertaining as ever. It's hilarious to hear them mimicking whatever was said to them on a daily basis when they were pets - three didn't childrens cries or screams, "Que esto?" and lots of laughs and holas. An hour was about the right time and we loaded up again. 

This is a good time to note that the main road under construction is crazy! We have to drive on the wrong side of the road with no markings, go on dirt while they are paving, find new entrances and exits when the normal ones are road blocked. That is an adventure in itself. 

Next stop was to a hidden waterfall. Well not hidden to the locals. Although it was a Monday it was packed. Some even camping. The only shady thing we have encountered happened there. To get into the park you make a donation to the local school. When we got to the parking lot a man approached with a clipboard saying we needed to pay $4 to park and go to the waterfall. This didn't seem right at all so I called his bluff and opened the door back up. He then said no, no it was ok and he'd still watch the car. The whole thing made me nervous. I'm sure he was just trying to get a few bucks off of tourists but it upset me a bit. 

We locked everything up and hikes down a steep trail that ended up in one of the most picturesque waterfalls I have seen. Kids swimming everywhere and teens strewn over the boulders. We climbed over the rocks as far as I was willing to go with the cameras and then headed back up. 

The drive to Rio Perdido was quite easy. Good signage. The landscape quickly changed from rainy and lush to dry and hot. So weird since we were quite close geographically to where we had just left. As we pulled up to the front gate of the resort it was obvious that this was going to be luxury. They had our names at the guard shack so we were off to a good start. 

The reception building (which happens to be a three story gigantic structure that houses the restaurant, bar, spa and everything) immediately reminded us of the place we spent our honeymoon - El Tamarindo in Mexico. Ricardo welcomed us and got us acquainted with the property. I wasn't expecting the view from the lookout. Straight down into a narrow canyon that contains the bluest River. We got our first glimpse of the zip lining we would be doing the next day. Yikes! 

Totally impressed we were then given a ride over to our bungalow (we wouldn't see our car again for two days) where they had taken our luggage while we were touring. 

The bungalows. If I were to design a resort it would probably look like this. Modern, simple and eco structures scattered through the hillside. To help people like me wifh bad navigation skills, the 20 bungalows were broken up by colors. Each one being grey with a colored stripe around it. The only thing missing for me was an outdoor shower. 

It was starting to get close to dinner time so we threw on our bathing suits and headed down another steep trail to the thermal springs. 

Oh my! Our own private natural hot springs in the jungle. The property had s string of areas to swim going up the stream. Each one marked and connected with a path. We later learned that the resort has been here for 3 years and started as just an adventure destination. However people wanted to come here and stay. The bungalows have been open for a year and a half and they are building 10 more. If you stay here there is no need to leave. 

We arrived at the first thermal pool where there was a trough of mud and paint brushes. We were warned that it would smell but that if you let if dry and then went in the water it would make your skin soft. I couldn't bare the smell too long so I went in. We explored a few of the pools, the only people back in the jungle. It was one of those amazing experiences I couldn't believe I was getting to experience. As it started to get dark we headed up to shower and go to dinner. 

Tip: take your shoes as you walk around in the jungle...

At dinner we realized that the staff here is huge. Two people per guest I would say. And not just back of house. Tons of front of house. Everyone is super polite and helpful. The tour guides were my favorite as I got to really talk to them but that's tomorrow's post. 

After I stopped having a heat stroke from the hike up I enjoyed my Rio Perdido drink. We were told later in the night that we could call for a cart to pick us up. Otherwise I'd say this place is not for anyone with mobility issues. You hold and climb a lot! It seemed like the folks got a commission on the Rio Perdido drink as they were really pushing it. Or maybe it was because it was delicious. It was like a frozen mojito with lots and lots of fresh mint. Yummy. 

Dinner was good. Josh's Cordon Bleu was actually delicious. My tilapia was fine but not great. Full we headed back and explored the satellite TV. It gets a huge number of channels. Only one in English.... Lights out. 

For those not keeping track, this is our fourth time in Costa Rica. We still haven't made it to Osa or Drake Bay so I'm sure we will be back again. We are coming down with a large group and decided to travel 4 days earlier just the two of us. 

PHOTO DISCLAIMER: All the photos on these blog posts will be from my iPhone for ease. Somebody is the best wife ever and surprised her husband wifh a new camera. So most our photography is being down on our DSLRs. Meaning I only have photos on here from some parts. 

Charlotte has one direct flight to and from Liberia a week on Saturday so it makes our flight selection easy. We were both upgraded to first class days out and with TSA precheck, the travel was super comfortable. When we landed we hit up the duty free store for a bottle of bourbon and wine. We've learned.

When we arrived our Vamos transfer was waiting with a sign and our name and he drove us to get our car. All the big companies are here but we have used this local one for three trips. The main reasons are the ease of the private pickup (vs shuttle bus), the friendly customer service and most importantly no one pushing us for unnecessary insurance. The others are notorious for tricking people into buying hundreds of dollars of insurance they don't need. 

I can't stress how important it is to understand international coverage on credit cards. Only one of our four we tried covered the car like we needed. In case you are wondering, it's American Express. They also have no international transaction fee. Well, at least for us.

We got our RAV4 and headed out. It's rainy season so a 4x4 is a must. We were a bit shocked to see that they were replacing the original Panamerican Hwy 1 with a raised four lane road. Also stranger was that it had sidewalks all along it. Guess tourism is still booming. Construction confused us slightly but we made it to Rio Celeste Hideaway. We tried following the directions from the hotel and discovered that the mileage numbers they gave were actually km. The km directions were just wrong. We chose the "more adventurous 4x4 only" route expecting it to be really horrible. It was actually the road to our favorite La Carolina and not horrible. A car couldn't have done it though and I imagine in full rain it would be hard. 

Here's where it got interesting. You have to go through a guard shack to get in and he has the guest names. He didn't have ours but kept going. We didn't think much of it. It was when reception asked to see my phone with my confirmation that I realized something was wrong. About that time the phone had rung and I had heard them say they were completely full. Hmmmm. 

Without explaining anything they took us on an odd tour, gave us free drinks and told us to sit by a fire. An hour later, yes an hour, the receptionist came over and handed us a key for 2 and said "sorry the room hadn't been prepared yet". She asked us to wait 5 min and then go. We waited 5 min, asked if we were supposed to find it ourselves and we're finally met at the car by Felix. Mind you no one has talked to us yet about what is going on. 

Felix loaded us up and asked us what was going on. He was shocked. Especially since we booked directly through them. He was the only one who hinted at us not getting the right room. Even so, we were happy for a bed and accepted graciously. 

We had read mediocre reviews about the food but we're happy with everything. The ceviche and heart of palm salad were our standouts. The freshness of the fruits and veggies here is unmatched in my mind. 

After dinner we took a quick dip in one of the three hot tubs and called it a night. I'm fairly sure we were snoring by 7:30 or 8. 

I was quite shocked to discover that we slept about 12 hours. Normally it takes my body a few days to get into vacation mode but I must have been really ready for a break. Throughout the night we discovered some of the shortcomings of the room and I was convinced we were in a bungalow that wasn't meant to be rented. AC didn't work, no TV (although that was fine), no clock and a dehumidifier that leaked all over the floor. Add in the fact that we backed up to a road, had families as our neighbors and we were adjacent to the pool - I was certain this couldn't be the high end secluded cabin we booked. Josh agreed we should ask. 

We started the morning with our free breakfast and I choose the continental. Juice, fruit, toast, cereal. Josh got a full egg and sausage breakfast. Not too much later my stomach let me knew I should have gone for a more substantial breakfast. My decaf coffee was apparently not included, although Josh's regular coffee was. Quite odd. During breakfast I popped over to the front desk and asked if I could talk about our reservation. She asked if we were going to stay another night. Oh no, not this again. I said yes and was told that the manager would be in at 9 to talk to us. I headed back to finish breakfast. 

By 9 we were done eating and headed back to the front desk to wait. 10 min later Felix let us know that they would have another room for us that day and the manager would be with us in 15 min. Fifteen minutes came and went. Then 50 minutes. At 10 I was getting fed up. My Pura Vida patience was growing thin. I went back to our clueless woman at the front desk. She smiled and asked how she  could help me. Um go find the manager. I've now spent two hours waiting for people and we have only been in the country 20. 

Magically, Ms. Manager appeared seconds later. She came out and I calmly asked if she could discuss our reservation with us and how we could remedy whatever issue there was. To her credit she was incredibly nice and didn't try to sugar coat anything. She said she didn't know how but they simply didn't put their reservation in when they sent my confirmation. They weren't expecting us and wanted to do everything to make it right. The room they gave us obviously wasn't what we booked and they weren't charging us for the first night. They would be moving us to the right cabin around lunch. I thanked her and told her we understood but wished her team had been honest and just told us what was going on. I'm pretty sure that surprised her as she thought we knew. I have a feeling someone was trying to save their butt and cover it up. 

Feeling better knowing that I wasn't crazy and we'd end up in the right place we got our cameras and headed to the back of the property to hike. The hotel is literally along Rio Celeste. I'm sure I should have know. That but I didn't. I also thought the hike was a leisurely 5 min walk.it was more like a steep well-maintained 1 mile trek down to the river. What I love the most about this part of the country is the lush rainforest. This time of year it's super green with all the rain. We immediately heard the rushing Rapids below and were treated to peaks of water before we reached a hanging wood bridge that I was sure would collapse if we stood on. We eventually made our way across and shortly came to the end of the trail with a wooden pavilion and clearing at the waters edge that allowed us to rock hop out to a boulder. 

The way back up was quite rough for me. I have had a heart condition all my life but during the last few years I've increasingly had some issues with my heart rate when I'm exercising or changing altitude. Combine those and I start feeling really odd and lightheaded at times. Josh kept pulling me ahead with the promise of the pool. Why did I not where my bathing suit underneath so that I could fall into the pool immediately after? That should be a tip. When hiking in CR in rainy season always be ready to douse yourself. 

Before I could make it to the pool my stomach demanded that it be fed. I utilized our outdoor shower for the third time in 24 hours because I'm simply obsessed with outdoor showers. To lunch we headed and treated ourselves to more ceviche along with traditional lunch and quesadilla. 

We checked on our room and it was ready for us. Felix was heading over to our room to drive our bags over. Easy peasy we loaded up and were in our new cabin seconds later. Yes. This is what I was expecting. The rooms all look the same inside. Except this one had our giant king bed, fresh roses scattered around and a basket of fresh fruit. Oh and AC, a clock, a TV, a lack of a dehumidifier and a porch that looked out to the lush rain forest. 

Another trip to the hot tub. Yes, it's chilly here. And nap time. 

Our plans for the night only included going back into Bijagua and going on a night tour with Frog's Paradise. Josh was skeptical as they had no website and only one review on Tripadvisor. I had been tipped of to the tour through an online forum when I commented that our favorite place was La Carolina. We decided to go the "recommended" route back to compare the two. Thank goodness we left really early to get food. It took us an hour and 45 minutes. The other way - 26 minutes. Four times longer. I wasn't happy. And the honest truth is that both ways are rough without 4x4. Never making that mistake again. 

The directions to find a restaurant and go 200 meters South and 600 meters west turned out to be fine. It was marked well. We got there and a man approached us. He didn't seem to be expecting us. All of a sudden a light bulb went off and he said "Jenny?" Thank goodness. His dad Miguel had already started with another couple. They obviously forgot we were coming. 

Miguel came and met us and I was instantly at ease. He reminded me of our beloved Alejandro at La Carolina. If you do this tour (which you should) wear long pants, put on bug spray,take a rain jacket and bring a flashlight. Or do what we did and wear shorts and borrow flashlights from Miguwl. 

He started by showing us his gardens and explaining the history. My disclaimer is that he didn't speak a lick of English and I think I was the only one in the group who could communicate with him. Subsequently he liked me best! Pretty sure that is what he said. Anyway, 20 years ago the land was a cattle farm. Since then he himself planted the forest. Didn't know that was possible but I believe him. The path system was quite spectacular. His love for the land was obvious. He was the kind of man I just wanted to give a big hug because he was so kind. 

Our tour quickly became a night tour and we were all participants in Spot the Animals. We found lots of frogs - 4 different kinds. A snake protecting its babies from a massive spider. Several types of birds. Giant grasshoppers. Moths. Sleeping butterflies. And lots of insects. Plus he grabbed a lot of plants and had be smell them and try to guess what they were in English. In case you are wondering most have the same names so I did pretty well in that game. Miguel also tried to get me to eat termites but I was saving room for dinner. Quite sure the German couple with us thought I was nuts. 

Our tour ended as the rain changed from a sprinkle to a pour. Miguel tried to tell me it only cost $15/person - that is insultingly low and I plan to have a word with him - and I decided to pay him our own price. He gave me a hug and made me promise to come back again. Such a fun night. 

By now it was pouring so we booked it to get back the DANGEROUS way (parents I'm being sarcastic)  and grabbed dinner at Rio Celeste before heading to bed.