Greece - Day 4 Folegandros

THE BACKWARDS BUS RIDE

We slept in until 9, packed and headed to the center to check out a catch a bus to Fira. Everything went smoothly until we were on the bus. About one mile into the route we came across another bus and couldn’t cross the paths. (The roads are very narrow and hard for even two cars to pass). After sitting there for 15 minutes, with our bus driver on the phone the whole time, our bus backed up and the other bus passed. We had lost 20 minutes, but thought that we would continue on our way now. We weren’t sure what was going on, but the bus then started backing up the entire way back to the center of Ia. There was lots of yelling between the bus driver and a few locals on the bus. We ended up taking another route down by the sea, although, I don’t think it was any faster. My guess is that we were so far off now that they just wanted to avoid the first half of the stops. One couple was so mad that they refused to pay until they got to Fira. The money guy gave them a stern look and told them to be more polite. The one good thing was that we got a free tour of even another part of the island. We went by Sigalas Winery and the scenery was pretty.

Luckily, we had left really early and still had 30 minutes to kill before catching our bus to the port. WE went up the main road in Fira and stopped another travel agency. They told us the same thing – no ferries on Sunday. This was upsetting and we figured there was nothing we could do from here. We would wait until we got to Folegandros to figure out what to do. I went back to the bus station while Josh went to find food. Ten minutes later he returned with no food. He didn’t look happy and said that he spent all his time waiting at the gyro place and they wouldn’t serve him. They served everyone around him and beside him, but completely ignored him. Fira was not making a good impression on us.  Maybe we just weren’t going to the nice places…

OUR EVENTFUL FERRY RIDE TO FOLEGANDROS

Disgruntled, we got on the bus at noon and headed for the port. We found some gyros before loading onto the boat and were off for our 3 ½ hours on the sea. We tried to sit outside, but the wind made it miserably cold and we went inside. We hung out in a quiet cabin area with several other American groups. I was surprised at the number of people who would leave their luggage unattended and go wander around the ferry. At one point the group of four behind us, all went outside to take pictures. While they were gone, two young girls came in. First they stated picking up their guide books. They taking them. I was about to follow the girls to get them back when the girls starting going through luggage.  Being the good person that I am, I went and found the group outside. They came back and followed the girls to recover the taken items. Another young couple seemed to think the kids were harmless until three of the girls started banging on their laptops and pulling the lady’s hair. The boyfriend finally had enough and picked the girls up and took them away.  It was quite amusing listening to the original foursome discuss how this just must be their culture and they wonder if they are real gypsies.

When we got to Folegandros, all the people were huddled by the ramp to disembark. We waiting as the mooring ropes were tied off. All of a sudden there was a huge bang, water fell from above and all the Greek men scrambled inside. One of the huge ropes snapped and came flying down. Luckily, no one was under it. We were ready to get off this ferry!

ANEMOMILOS APARTMENTS

Our host at Anemomilos picked us up in the van and took us up to the hotel. We were immediately more at peace. It was a beautiful day and a beautiful setting. We got a green-line room (trying to save a few pennies) right above the office. No Cliffside room, but still beautiful and a view of the sea through the pergolas across the walkway. Our patio was large and separate from everyone else’s, also. The pool area is nicely screened with lush plants so you can’t see the pool from our terrace.

DISCOVERING THE VILLAGE

After showing us our room, Cornelia told me that she got my email about the ferry problem. She assured me that there was a ferry on Sunday and to get my tickets from Diablos after 6. After getting settled (it was so nice to actually unpack our bags) we went to explore the village a little. We walked up to the church on the hill, Panaglia. It is quite a steep, but short, walk. The view is amazing. The church was quite pretty and their were stairs that allowed you to climb up onto the dome. It was a little windy, so Josh got nervous and made us get down quickly. There were goats and donkeys grazing on the hillside along the path as we walked. Quite different from the touristy place we had just come from.

We then wandered around the village.  Chora (the main town) is a series of five interconnected town squares. They are all quaint and look like something you would see in the movies. Throughout the town are stone paths with white grout that the locals repaint each year.  After we tried to get lost, we went back to get ready for dinner.

O KRITIKIES

Cornelia suggested that we try O Kritikies for some good local meat that night. I wasn’t sure that I was up for goat, but decided to take her word for it.  After a game of chess out on the terrace, we headed out for dinner.  In Santorini, everyone went out to dinner very late – at least after 9. Tonight, we got to the restaurant about 8:15 and over half the tables were already taken. By the time we left, they were completely packed. The crowd was a nice mixture of both tourists and locals. This was the trend we saw during our entire stay at Folegandros.  

Our first waiter was the son of the Owner. When I asked him what was good on the menu, he responded, “Everything. My mother is in the kitchen tonight”. I thought and rephrased my question. “What is your favorite?” He told me that the Mousaka and Pork Steak were especially good that night. We took his advice and ordered those along with grilled feta (with tomato, green peppers, capers and olive oil grilled) and a ¼ of red wine (who knows what kind) and a beer. We were very happy when we got the bill and saw how much cheaper it was to eat here than in Santorini.  The second waiter came over after we were done and said “Today is your first night on the island, right?” I told him yes and asked how he knew. He explained that it was off season and the locals notice everyone who is new. He then brought us pieces of the island specialty dessert (the name has slipped my mind). It is made with sesame seeds and honey. Very good.

THE A BAR

We asked waiter #2 where to go for drinks, as he was our age. He said it was really early in the season so if we saw anywhere with 10 people to go in, because that meant it was packed.  He suggested the bar right across from O Kritikies that starts with an A (the sign was in Greek and even when I tried to translate it, it didn’t make sense) and El Greco. We had heard that the wine bar Kellari was great, but Cornelia told us earlier that it had closed. The owner didn’t own the building and had been forced to leave. However, he had opened a new place called Baraki, over by the grocery store. We went to Baraki first but it was closed.

We headed to the A bar, because it had 10 people! It was very small with a bar and one table at the front and one at the back. On nice nights, they would put tables outside also. I’m not sure how more than 10 people could fit in this place. The bartender was very friendly and had a huge collection of CD’s with some mixing equipment.  At one point I really liked a band he had on. He explained that he wasn’t playing mainstream Greek music and that most people don’t realize that Greek music is so diverse. He described what he played as alternative. At one point he played a Bouzouki album recorded in NYC in 1965 for us. He explained one of the songs where all the Greek people were heading for America . Some of it reminded me of older Shakira Spanish albums.

We must have spent 2 ½ hours in the bar with our host and new friend from Switzerland . we heard what the Greeks really thought about the sinking cruise ship and even discussed why so many people dislike Americans. A larger group of Welsh tourists came in and we went ahead and called it a night.